Monday, May 28, 2012

A Celebration of a Birth

i've made it pretty clear that I really love birthdays.  

so it's only fitting i give acknowledgement to the birth of my favorite person in the whole world-

the calm to my whirlwind
the logic to my overfeeling
the granola to my chocolate

from the very beginning and that first birthday eight years ago...

through your awesome twenty first...

to today. 

i love you and happy birthday topher!

Thursday, May 24, 2012

the longest run-on sentence and some acronyms

the last few weeks have been crazy busy, but also pretty exciting and fun.  last week, we spent a few days at our first official cambodian beach to celebrate topher and fellow pcv friends' birthdays, then slogged our way back through downpours on a shifty boat to make it to phnom penh for our mid-service training (which, if you're keeping count, did in fact happen three and half months too soon for it to be our actual mid-service date), and returned home only for me to get hit with some yucky sickness this week.

a giant hill we climbed...so we could get to the other side.

chris has been in high gear this week running an art week for his students to participate in a traveling art show, and completing mountains of paperwork for a boys camp he is doing with fellow pcvs next week, and i've been...watching my own pile of work-to-do grow from the bed.

but, perhaps most importantly for those reading, chris and i have been debating the finer points of two television shows and their merit when compared with one another.

HIMYM vs. BBT.

on one side, you have me, rooting for how i met your mother, and its sweet, funny story lines, relatable characters, and general musicality that gets me every time.

in the opposing corner, topher roots for big bang theory, as he deems it hilarious and well-acted.

(but let's be honest here topher, you really like BBT better because 90% of the jokes are related to science fiction, which means 90% of the time you're laughing and i'm a bit confused.)

so, in closing of these not-so-important-at-all-in-fact updates, i ask:

HIMYM or BBT?

Thursday, May 10, 2012

relevant thoughts, brought to you courtesy of may tenth


thoughts and comments and ideas and reflections have been knocking around my head for a few days now.

reflections and thoughts about cambodia, and life in cambodia, and the people of cambodia, and the people of america and the two peoples together.

sad thing is, every time i have one of those thoughts that i immediately tell myself "self, that was a semi brilliant thought! save it for the blog later!"

and then i promptly forget them.

what's good and happy and joyous about all of these thoughts is that they are just that: good and happy and joyous.

mainly, i've been feeling very...settled and content in cambodia.  there are some incredibly exciting things on the horizon, but even better are the daily interactions i've been having with people that energize me and speak to my soul, and fulfill that lingering question of why i'm here.

there are three main goals of peace corps.  the first one is to provide skilled men and women to countries that need our said skills.  the second is to develop a deep understanding of the new culture we are placed within, and share that culture with friends, family, and, in general, the united states.  the third is to bring elements of our culture with us to our new home, and respectfully show, explain, and share our own personal brand of american culture and broader american culture with our new communities.


in so many ways, my experience has been defined less by the first goal and more so by the second two.  i've written about the joy i get from having conversations with women at the market, or new people at the photo shop, or even our family as they tell us that they love that we joke around with them and each other in khmer.  those second and third goals often feel like the bread and butter of my time here- i love every second of it, and it comes naturally to the culture of cambodians, who deeply value the casual art of conversation.  i think it's pretty clear that i love speaking khmer with cambodians, i even love making mistakes and having them teach me a new word, and i especially love getting a laugh every time i share the little piece of my world wherein i never cook because it is NOT delicious, but my husband does, and we help each other because i do most of the laundry and wash the dishes.  cultural exchange, at its best.

for so long, i felt a bit impotent in my position of providing new information and sharing my skills of teaching and teaching teachers to my cambodian trainees and counterparts.  a bit like what i had to offer was relevant, but nearly impossible to replicate due to strict policies of the system or vast cultural differences.

take, for example, my general demeanor as a teacher- firm, but also completely wiling to go to any lengths needed to explain a concept- had me showing my trainees how to use miming as an exercise for eliciting new vocabulary by pretending that i was a tree growing, or that i had tripped and fallen, or that i was angry, or in love, or any other range of emotions that leave my face contorted.  my general demeanor as a teacher in many fundamental ways contradicts what is considered appropriate or polite or acceptable for teachers, especially female ones.  i often asked myself, what am i giving that is of use to the students who learn from me?

and then this week, as my first year trainees headed off to their practical teaching experience at a local school, my second year trainees returned.  and we began to traverse the wilds of practicing (for some) and learning (for others) english.  and instead of having to overly simplify my speech, or translate every word into khmer, or ask the same question five times, i found myself speaking at a mostly normal pace (a normal teaching speaking pace, that is), translating only when i wanted to be very specifically clear, and having many students offering to answer open-ended, not in the book questions.

and it was eureka.  and i saw myself, walking around that classroom, as if i was an observer outside, and i was content in seeing the american woman, being herself, slightly goofier than your average khmer woman, but still eliciting original thoughts and statements, especially from girls, being respected and listened to, and turning a normally boring lesson about visiting a far off province to a nearly engaging English lesson, mainly involving vast amounts of speaking and listening.

and all that came before that moment- the months i had spent with this group of trainees in the preceding months, the year that my predecessor volunteer had spent with this group of trainees, the time that i had invested into building a trusting relationship with my counterpart such that he let me take the lesson on the path and evolution that i wanted, and the respect and general happiness that i enjoy in that relationship because of my own concerted effort, my own casual discussions over coffee, and that of, again, the volunteers before me-

they all led to this glorious eureka.  this gradual release of what it should be, what i thought it'd be, into what it simply is.

and what it is is amazing and a great place to be, nearly ten months in.

Monday, May 7, 2012

A Viet Nam Visit: Halong Bay, Danang, Nha Trang and Dalat

so, halfway through our vietnam trip, my camera died.  i had even fully charged that lithium battery within an inch of its life before we left!  at the time on the trip, i just couldn't figure out why my camera would up and die on me.

and then i saw the veritable photo shoot i hosted on the boat at halong bay. a photo shoot of the chrispinator and me. well, mostly me and the strange faces i make.  

and then i knew why my camera died halfway through our trip.

while in hanoi, we decided to take a day trip to near-ish by halong bay. gorgeous, gorgeous halong bay.
leaving the docks for the bay
it was an exciting trip, mainly for the gorgeous views, but also because i dawned a sweatshirt for the first time in nearly a year and we ate delicious food while taking in the views.

this is a hoodie! and i'm wearing it!
hey open, beautiful waters.
might be a favorite photo from the trip. isn't el tophoro handsome as shnat? 





part of the floating villages
we were, in fact, still married when we visited halong bay.
shall we begin the photo shoot?



are you serious?


part of our boat tour was a stop at the near by caves. gorgeous.


on our last day in hanoi, we stopped at a gourmet ice cream shop.  as if you couldn't guess, mine is the larger one.



topher: "can i eat it already? i hate melted ice cream!"
 we took an overnight sleeper train from hanoi to danang.  the approximately 15 hour trip began with a stop at a nearby deli for some refreshments that we hoped would make sleeping easier, and whatever food we could grab.


i am a tiger.

chris did not like his chicken sandwich.
but i loved mine!
 we shared our sleeper cabin with a family of four from switzerland. they were on the last two months of a year long journey around the world.  that they just decided to take with their two young children.  you know.



after miles and miles of bumpy sleep and then gorgeous coast line, we arrived at the beach of danang.  danang was a popular beach for american soldiers to escape to during the american war.


we enjoyed a ton of great, fresh seafood.


and i even got to enjoy some delicious wine one evening, while chris slurped on some ice cold beer.



we spent all of our four days in danang on the beach, lounging.  i didn't bring my camera down with us until we took a nighttime stroll.  to capture the water, we had to go sans flash, and after some wine...well, you get this.



after a relaxing time in danang, we hopped another train- soft seats this time- and traveled to another beach destination of nha trang.


we again spent a glorious three days enjoying delicious food and glorious sun.




we spent one great evening in, enjoying wine and chocolate.


our final stop was the beautiful town of dalat.  built as an escape for the french during their occupation in the 1900's, it's like a mini european hideaway.  with windy, yet very hilly streets and ample park and natural space, it was beautiful.


we spent a couple of days soaking in the chilly weather at the large lake, and wanted to walk the course of the lake, but i was taken down by an achy illness.  so we opted to sit and enjoy the views.

the eiffel tower inspired cell tower
the final picture we captured before the camera died.
if you look closely in the final picture, you can see my swollen eye, where a mosquito bit me and caused me to look a bit... uneven.

oh vietnam, how you cooled our bodies and warmed our tummies with deliciousness.  thank you.

Saturday, May 5, 2012

A Viet Nam Visit: Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi

every year each april, cambodia celebrates khmer new year.  while the holiday is officially only three days long, schools close for a duration much longer than that as everyone travels to their homeland to spend time with loved ones.

topher and i decided to take advantage of that time to spend time with our loved ones in cambodia- namely, each other.

a large group of volunteers in cambodia chose to visit vietnam during the break, but somehow each travel group managed to visit different cities at different times, and there was minimal random run-ins, which it's safe to say, surprised us all!

Vietnamese Dong

i'm officially a big fan of vietnam.  beyond the delicious food like pho, spring rolls and crispy noodles, the weather in central and northern vietnam was gorgeous, and traveling around the country via train was a wonderful way to see the beautiful coastline.

chowing down on vietnamese food and beer at the night market in HCMC

chris and i started our trip down south, bussing it to ho chi minh city (or, saigon) and spending two great days bumming around with some fellow volunteers.  

we spent the first full day visiting the near by cu chi tunnels, used by the vietcong to evade the american enemy during the american war.

tiger booby trap at the tunnels

an opening to the tunnels
i may look happy but i was actually disgusted by the sound of machine gun fire that littered our visit, as part of the experience can be to purchase rounds to fire them off, just as they did during the war.  tourism at it's best, that is.
 
we even had the chance to walk 500 meters through one of the tunnels, widened for tourist use. i made it 100 yards, and chris went all the way!

while in ho chi minh, we got our first taste of subway in over nine months, enjoyed some delicious vietnamese and indian food, and even found cheap, familiar beer. i even enjoyed a personal pan pizza all by myself for lunch before we departed via plane to hanoi.

indian food where instead of lessening the heat, the chef accidentally added even more chillis. awesome.
chris: "beer with taste and then cheap american beer!"

kate: "i can drink my cheap heineken while eating a kit kat, yes i can!"

personal pan pizza and fountain coke. my personal version of heaven.

in hanoi, we spent three days enjoying chilly weather, gorging on pho, and downing as much bia hoi as we could.

crispy beef noodles.
crispy, delicious spring rolls
bia hoi
bia hoi is daily, freshly brewed light pilsner beer that small restaurants and stands sell beginning in the early evening and late into the night (as long as it lasts) for very, very cheap. 

bia hoi

chris and i enjoyed some delicious food in hanoi, like catfish spring rolls and crispy ostrich.


catfish spring rolls

ostrich. amazing.
we also took a day to walk around, and enjoy the vietnamese women's museum.

waiting on some delicious pho.

phooooooo!

the women's museum.

inside the women's museum.
at the large lake, hoan kiem, in the middle of hanoi
we even found delicious caramel and cheese popcorn!


we also couldn't get enough of the fresh fruit smoothies we found everywhere.



up next: ha long bay, danang, nha trang and dalat!